David Demaree


Mark Vanhoenacker visits, compares and contrasts two icons of American food—Thomas Keller's French Laundry, and Mickey D's—and finds them to be, in some ways, not all that different from each other:

At McDonald's one is not likely to be served such French Laundry delights as a Tajine of Sweetbreads or Confit de Coeur de Veau. (And really it’s a pity to go through life without ever trying the Foie Gras en Terrine with K&J Orchard Peaches, Fennel Bulb and Yogurt Génoise.) Yet these are just the sorts of animal parts that fast-food restaurants have long been accused of stuffing into their burgers. Why is offal okay when Thomas Keller uses it? Both restaurants serve impressive pommes frites.